Visitors often describe Hue as “melancholic,” but the “melancholy” of Hue is not one of sorrow or burden—it’s a gentle, peaceful stillness. It reflects the calm, unhurried lifestyle and the quiet soul of timeworn houses, preserved through the passage of years.
While the grand palaces, temples, and mausoleums of Hue symbolize the glory of its imperial past, it is the traditional architecture—temples, pagodas, and ancient town streets—that tell the true story of everyday life for Hue’s people through the ages.
Among them, Chi Lang – Gia Hoi Ancient Town and Bao Vinh Ancient Town, located on the eastern outskirts of the Imperial City, stand out as once bustling hubs of the ancient capital. These places preserve the nostalgic and quintessential essence of Hue, echoing with the city’s rich cultural soul.
Today, many century-old architectural works still remain, with distinct Chinese, Indian, and Vietnamese styles—temples, clan halls, and old residences that deserve to be preserved and shared with all who cherish cultural tourism.
1. Chi Lang – Gia Hoi Ancient Town
Gia Hoi is an old residential area of Hue with hundreds of historical landmarks and beautiful architectural structures. This ancient quarter includes streets like Chi Lang, Bach Dang, Nguyen Du, and To Hien Thanh. I love the peaceful atmosphere here, cycling down narrow streets, gazing at moss-covered rooftops, weathered walls, and quaint wooden houses nestled along the roadside.
The area developed rapidly after the Nguyen Lords moved the capital of Southern Vietnam to this region. Later, it became a bustling town during the Nguyen Dynasty, and remains one of the most vivid and authentic representations of traditional life in ancient Hue.
One notable site is Dieu De Pagoda on Bach Dang Street, built on the very ground where Emperor Thieu Tri was born and lived before ascending the throne. Dieu De is one of the three national pagodas of Hue. Today, locals often come here to pray for health and good fortune, especially during festivals.
Another highlight is the “Chinese Quarter” on the same street, once home to Hue’s Chinese community. Architectural gems like Chieu Ung Temple, Ba Temple, Quang Dong Pagoda, the Teochew Assembly Hall, and the Fujian Assembly Hall remain almost perfectly preserved.
Further down is Dinh Market, which, though much smaller than Dong Ba Market today, once thrived in the past. The area was named after the many residences of nobles and officials built nearby. Some still stand today, such as Tho Xuan Residence, Thoai Thoai Vuong Residence, Hoa Thanh Vuong Residence, and Quang Bien Quan Cong Residence.
Chi Lang Street also hosts many spiritual landmarks, including Thanh Binh Ancestral House (Vietnam’s largest theater guild ancestral temple), the ancient Truong Xuan Pagoda, and Tran Hung Dao Temple.
This area still retains numerous old houses, bearing the marks of history across their structure and design. Evolving over centuries, the homes here showcase a blend of traditional Hue garden houses and French colonial architecture. Some buildings now exist only as ruins, while others preserve every intricate detail.
Unfortunately, urbanization is gradually erasing these heritage houses. So if you ever visit Hue, make sure to walk these streets before modernity fully engulfs and overshadows their timeless charm.
2. Bao Vinh Ancient Town
Located about 3 kilometers from downtown Hue lies Bao Vinh, once a thriving riverside trading port where boats and merchants bustled day and night.
Bao Vinh dates back centuries, and though its vibrant trading days are long gone, the remnants of that golden era live on in ancient houses nearly 200 years old, standing quietly beside more modern buildings.
While Bao Vinh no longer retains the full shape of an ancient town, it still has its banyan trees, tiled roofs, communal yards, ferry docks, and a rustic countryside market—silent testaments to a glorious past.
Here, you’ll find wooden “ruong” houses with low, tiled roofs typical of old marketplaces, interspersed with two-story townhouses in square layouts built in the early 20th century.
When visiting Bao Vinh, stop by the ancient village communal house, located near a slope just before entering the village. Two towering banyan trees stand guard like ancient sentinels. Also, visit the Bao Vinh ferry dock, where you’ll see boats that seem to have sailed straight out of poetry and literature.
I especially love strolling through the town at sunset, when golden light casts a nostalgic glow over mossy rooftops and faded walls. Everything feels soaked in a serene, poetic stillness that words can barely capture.
If you’re tired, take a break at Mat Biec Café, located at 66 Bao Vinh. Inspired by the famous Vietnamese film Dreamy Eyes by Victor Vu, this vintage café is perfect for photo ops, heartwarming conversations, or a quiet escape from deadlines—an ideal space full of sentiment and peace.
Hue is my hometown, and I’ve always hoped it would grow and be recognized by more people. But progress shouldn’t mean forgetting the past—building new, bustling urban areas while neglecting cultural heritage. True development lies in investing wisely, preserving, and enhancing our historical and cultural values.
These two ancient quarters are slowly being forgotten. Their old houses are deteriorating over time. I hope they soon receive the attention and preservation they truly deserve—for the beauty and legacy they carry.
